Provence Lavender
Many have tried to define the magic of Provence, but it is not one single thing, it is many, many glorious things together.
“Provence is one of the great garden destinations of the world. It is a special place where the beauty of its natural landscape has magically mingled with civilizations for centuries, and the beauty keeps on radiating.” —Bonnie Jo Manion
Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie
Lunch time in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue With New Friend
Outdoor cafes and restaurants are virtually a way of life and extremely important for socializing with friends and beasts. Some friends are invited and some just make their way to your table. You hardly can go wrong, taking in a moment to yourself, a refreshment, a possible bite to eat, and a chance to catch up with your day.
Cafe Time in Aix-en-Provence
Take a beautiful outdoor cafe, mix in a bit of sunshine and fresh air, add a steaming cup of espresso, and viola, your day is made.
One of the most beautiful and impressive places to sit in a cafe and experience the "cafe life" is on Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence. It is often called the Avenue des Champs-Elysees of the south. This grand boulevard with its massive plane trees and ancient moss-covered trickling fountains was first laid out in 1651. Nearly 400 years later, it still is a wonderful boulevard to sit at an outdoor cafe, and just experience life. I suggest the famous cafe, Le Deux Garcons towards the top of the grand boulevard.
Self-Photo at Roman Pont du Gard
This Roman aqueduct, Pont du Gard, has stood the test of time for more than 2,000 years and ticking. How utterly unbelievable. Although the Pont du Gard attracts over 1 million visitors a year, with nary a person in sight, we had to resort to a self-photo. The Pont du Guard was built to transport water across the Gardon River Valley, starting at a spring outside Uzes nearly 30 miles away, to the Roman city of Nimes. The Pont du Guard consists of three levels, the top one was where water was transported, and the first level actually was used as a road. It is estimated that it took 800-1,000 workers about three years to construct it. There was no mortar used in building this engineering masterpiece.
Roman Pont Julien, Near Bonnieux
Pont Julien is a small three-arched perfectly preserved Roman bridge, tucked away in the valley floor, just before the rising hilltop village of Bonnieux. It is also more than 2,000 years old, and up until 1995 was still used for traffic. Since then a new bridge has been constructed next to it. Pont Julien was named after the family of Julius Caesar. It was part of the ancient Roman trade road that linked the Alps to the Pyrenees, through the south of Gaul.
Secret Roman Ruins Outside of Aix-en-Provence
If you are intrigued by the Romans and their influence on Provence, create a "Romans in Provence" itinerary visiting Nimes, Arles, Vaison-la Romaine, Orange, Saint-Remy, to name a few places to get you started. Some Roman marvels are well known, and some are much less known. You simply happen upon them along your travels.
Spice Vendor, Lourmarin Friday Market, Provence
The photo above is of the lively Friday morning market in Lourmarin, also the village where famed English author, Peter Mayle, who wrote A Year in Provence and other novels, calls home.
One of my very favorite things to do when traveling is to frequent the local markets. As a matter of fact, I plan my itinerary around the flea markets, antique markets, fresh produce markets, bird markets, flower markets, etc. Markets are so colorful, and give you a real slice of local people, life, culture, and ambience. Markets are very lively and the vendors often very outgoing and playful types.
Markets are a way of life, especially in Provence, France. Locals shop frequently for fresh ingredients and produce, rather then once a week or every two weeks. The markets are held different days in different villages, and often specialize in certain items. Usually a guidebook, or articles on a particular market will divulge which "must have" items to seek out. Also, the month you are traveling may determine what is in season, and what to purchase. In Provence, cherries are a delectable treat in May, and lavender is in full bloom in July.
One of the "must have" items for me, are spices. I love to collect and buy spices whenever I travel. Each country has their cuisine and flavors, and what better way to relive your trip and experiences then making their local dishes and recipes, with local spices you have purchased there. Spices are easy to pack, and usually have a long shelf life. Spices are a small splurge, and a small effort to take home for memorable times long after your trip. They also make wonderful, reasonable gifts for loved ones, and especially for those who like to cook.
Produce Is Elevated To Art Form
In Provence, its wonderful markets are brimming with Provence cheese, black olive tapenades, lavender honey, flowers, olive oils, wonderful hand-made sausage, local crafts, colorful Provence linens, hand-made pottery, delightful breads, and seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables. When you are here, take advantage of these incredible foods and flavors and experience Provence. You must pick up some famous "Herbes de Provence" which usually consists of dried thyme, basil, savory, fennel, and lavender.
Provence outdoor markets are a treat for all of your senses with colors, aromas, tastes, and people-watching. Some of my favorite markets in Provence are the Tuesday: Vaison-la Romaine, Thursday: Nyons, Saturday: Apt, Sunday: L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
Plane Trees In Cucuron
One does not travel and explore Provence, especially if you are a gardener, without noticing its beautiful and awed plane trees. Plane trees are found everywhere in Provence. They line its country roads, often approaching and leaving a town or village. They are a focal point in many a family's courtyard, providing umbrella-like shade, and a spot to place an inviting outdoor table. They are often strategically planted in village centers and town squares. They can create a majestic and impressive grand boulevard style in their maturity and beautiful foliage.
Plane trees are the type of tree, in maturity, that create their own environment. They can reach 100 feet tall or more. Plane trees can be shaped and groomed into a variety of shapes, and provide welcome shade, especially in the warmer months of the year. Plane trees were planted prolifically, because they were a durable tree to population pollution, grew quickly, provided excellent shade, looked beautiful, required little water, and could be planted in poor soil.
Provence plane trees are a hybrid of the Asian and American sycamore trees. They were created, quite by accident out of Oxford, England in the 16th century. In the 19th century, plane trees were imported to Southern France, and planted extensively. Napoleon was responsible for extensive planting of plane trees throughout Southern France, for the purpose of keeping his marching army cool, under their great green canopies.
Tops of Plane Trees In Gigondas
Wouldn't it be wonderful to live in a region, like Provence, where plane trees are so prolific, so enduring, and so much a part of the charming character of the countryside. Plane trees are yet another reason, why the Provence countryside is so endearing.
Lower Rhone Valley and Town of Sablet
Provence is so large and diverse, it really is hard to describe it all. When traveling by car, one is often fooled by the distance and time it takes to get around. Although there are some highways, a lot of the roads, are secondary roads which meander and wind through the small villages, towns, and countryside. In fact, "the mode" of getting around Provence seems to support the relaxed tempo of life here.
Approaching the Medieval Village of Gordes
In the Luberon region of Provence, the large regional Luberon Park protects the countryside from random development and preserves its wonderful valley floors and rising Luberon foothill views.
The wind can be a factor in Provence. There are actually several winds which occur in this region. The mistral, probably the best known, originates in Siberia and barrels towards Provence through the Cote du Rhone valley, sometimes with violent force and sometimes for days. During a mistral wind, everyone has a favorite legendary "mistral story" to tell.
Overlooking The Village of Bonnieux
Many of the hillside villages are from medieval times, and some started as Roman beginnings, when that was the best way to defend yourself from invaders. Often well-preserved, and with commanding views, these villages have wonderful bistros, weekly markets, honey-stone churches to explore, village tradition, artisan crafts, and lively local culture to take in.
Provence is soothing and peaceful visually. How can you not be moved looking out at its verdant quilted patchwork countryside, gentle rising foothills, valley floors, and vast blue horizon, seemingly untouched for centuries. Incredibly, you can still experience fields of happy sunflowers, acres of scented lavender, flocks of sheep migrating, producing olive groves, and noteworthy vineyards, as part of normal everyday Provencal life.
Springtime in Provence, when these photos were taken, show how simply beautiful the countryside is. Much of the landscape in spring consists of budding vineyards, gnarled mature olive trees, towering cypress, blossoming fruit trees, climbing roses, blooming wisteria, and the dramatic red poppy in mass.
Have you been to Provence in the spring? What is your favorite memory?
Magic of Provence, Red Poppies Blooming in May
This fall 2023, I have the opportunity to travel to the south of France and Paris with a dear friend. While I am away, I thought it would be fun to revisit some of my previous Provence blog posts and photos for you as an armchair traveler. You can also follow me on Instagram to catch my fall adventures.
Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie
I am not an expert on Provence, France, but I have studied, researched, and created two wonderful 2007 and 2008 spring itineraries that my husband, John, and I followed to experience the heart and soul of Provence. There is something so magical about Provence, it reaches to my very core. I snapped the above photo, roadside on an early Sunday morning, heading to the famous and fabulous L'lsle-sur-la-Sorgue antique market.
It is hard to pinpoint why Provence is so special. Is it the light that Van Gough would talk about and try and capture in his paintings? Is it the Roman influence of ancient engineering masterpieces, roads, and villages that survive to tell their story? Is it the legendary "mistral wind" that bellows through the famous Cote du Rhone valley? Is it the unspoiled rural countryside beauty? Is it the absolutely charming people full of rich tradition and culture? Is it the incredibly fresh and mouth-watering seasonal foods and time-proven wines? Is it the fact that you never know who you will run into at a cafe, or bump elbows with at an outdoor market? Ah, you will just have to go sometime and ponder these questions yourself. If you have been to Provence, and have some wonderful stories, please share.
Writing about a few things that makes Provence so magical a place is difficult. I could jot down a long detailed list, but prefer instead to share with you a few snapshots, that those fortunate to call Provence their home experience on a regular basis, if not daily.
Generally, my itineraries are "off the tourist beaten path", preferring to visit the lesser known special places, such as Edith Mezard's tiny linen and embroidery shop in Lumieres, the Abbaye St. Andre gardens across the river from the popular city, Avignon, or the little cheese shop, Lou Canesteou, in Vaison-la-Romaine, to name a few. Rick Steves' Provence and The French Riviera 2009 is a good guidebook for general information, tips, and proven itineraries for those wanting a starting point.
Some of my favorite books written about Provence, were the catalyst to visit this special part of France, and experience it first hand. If you can't get to Provence in the near future, perhaps you would like to begin by reading some of these wonderful books. For more information on these books, just "click" on their titles. A Good Year. A Pig in Provence: Good Food and Simple Pleasures in the South of France.A Year in Provence.Words in a French Life: Lessons in Love and Language from the South of France.
Please follow along with me for more snapshots of Provence.
Potato and Green Bean Salad with Pastis Vinaigrette
I have made recently two new potato salad recipes, that are similar in a way, yet different. Both are great recipes to make spring into summer. Both use seasonal vegetables and finish with a toss of flavorful vinaigrettes while the salad ingredients are warm.
What makes them different is the type of potatoes used, red onion versus leeks, different herbs—parsley and thyme versus mint, and entirely different vinaigrettes. You can’t go wrong with either one.
The first recipe is from Elizabeth Bard’s book, Lunch in Paris, a fun and light romantic read about an American gal falling for a French man and his culture, while interjecting fabulous recipes along the way. Bard’s Picnic in Provence is also a fun read, and a sequel as her adventurous life continues in South France.
The second recipe is by Romel Bruno, recently published in The New York Times. This recipe is easy to make and I love the sherry vinegar and shallot flavor combination. This is a great side dish, but Bruno suggests adding hard-boiled eggs for a hearty vegetarian dinner.
Lovingly Adapted from Elizabeth Bard’s Lunch in Paris
Recipe Note: Pastis is a refreshing summer apéritif, particularly loved in the South of France. I happen to have a bottle of it in my pantry. I believe you can find it at most liquor stores. This flavor adds a licorice kick. playing on the textures of crunchy beans and creamy potatoes. The original recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard, and I think it needs two.
Ingredients:
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon pastis or anisette
1/4 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1-2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil or more, up to 1/2 cup, to taste
1-1/2 pounds small red potatoes, halved or quartered
3/4 pound haricots verts, extra-thin French green beans, blanched
1 small red onion, minced
1/2 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme (if you don’t have fresh, skip it)
1/2 cup tiny black niçoise olives
Directions:
Combine the first 7 ingredients for the vinaigrette in a glass jar or other airtight container. Shake vigorously to combine. You can make the vinaigrette several days in advance.
Place the potatoes in a pot of lightly salted cold water, bring to a boil, and cook them until tender (20 to 30 minutes).
Meanwhile, trim the beans and blanch them in lightly salted water for 3 to 4 minutes. They should remain bright green and retain their snap. Drain and rinse them under cold water; pat them dry with a paper towel.
Drain the potatoes. While they are still warm, placed them in a large bowl with the onion, parsley, thyme, olives, and green beans. Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat. Leave in the fridge for an hour or so that the flavors have a chance to blend. This salad is best served at room temperature. Yields: 4-6
Roasting the Vegetables for Roasted Sheet Pan Potato Salad
Lovingly Adapted from Romel Bruno, Published in The New York Times
Ingredients For the Salad:
1-1/2 pounds baby potatoes, halved if large
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Kosher salt and Black Pepper
1 bunch thick asparagus (about 1 pound), ends trimmed, stalks cut crosswise in thirds
1 large leek, white and green parts only, halved lengthwise then cut into 1/2-inch half-moons
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
4 hard-boiled eggs (optional), quartered
Ingredients for the Shallot Dressing:
1/3 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 small shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon honey
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
Directions:
Heat the oven to 425 F. degrees. Place the potatoes on a large sheet pan, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Toss to coat, then spread in an even layer and roast for 15 minutes.
In a medium bowl, toss asparagus and leek slices with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and the paprika. Take the potatoes out of the oven and give them a stir. Spread the vegetables evenly on top of the potatoes. Cook until the vegetables are tender and browned in spots, 10 to 15 minutes.
While the vegetables are roasting, make the dressing: Combine the the olive oil, vinegar, shallot, mustard, honey, and mint in a bowl, then whisk to combine.
When the vegetables are done, spoon the dressing over everything and let sit for about 5 minutes. Serve with hard-boiled eggs, if desired, and sprinkle with mint. Serves 4.
Bon Appétit et Bon Weekend…Bonnie